“LA SETTIMANA BIANCA” in the Dolomites

March 8, 2017

Literally translated means “the white week”  or, as commonly referred to by all Italians, their last chance for a winter getaway and spend some precious outdoor time in alpine wonderland, i.e. the Dolomites mountain range in the Northern Italian alps, before the snow starts to melt & Spring arrives.

Long1-single1Typically, Italians plan for this weeklong holiday vacation just after they’ve settled back home following their famous Ferragosto summer holiday break which is normally 3 weeks off in a row mid-August….ohhh how sweet la dolce vita really is!

The Dolomites are proudly home to a number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites which are protected mountain landscapes of exceptional intrinsic beauty: from sweeping panoramas & alpine lakes to rising peaks these monuments are truly a spectacle to nature’s allure. The South Tyrol region, also known as Alto Adige, is a unique haven bordering Austria & Switzerland where the majority of the population speaks German as their mother tongue: the Austrian influences extend to the local culture as well including the distinctive cuisine.

There are endless charming fairytale villages & towns to visit including Bressanone, Brunico, Merano and San Candido while some of the top Italian ski resorts include: Cortina d’Ampezzo (Veneto), Madonna di Campiglio (Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol), Selva di Val Gardena ((Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol), Folgarida and Marilia(Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol), Corvara in Val Badia (Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol).  Many routes heading to the Northern Italian alps will have you stopping every so often at local cantinas and vineyards that line the glacial valleys- you can never go wrong by following the Strada del Vino signs that crisscross in & out of these scenic panoramas.

It’s no wonder these locations are also many Europeans’ favorite go-to-resorts as more than a dozen peaks in the Dolomites mountain range alone exceed 3,000 meters, usually ensuring fresh powder through early April. Towering rocky mountain peaks will demand your attention and first time visitors are often awestruck at their majestic beauty. From jetsetter Cortina to the relaxed and friendly Val Gardena, tourists can immerse themselves in spectacular mountain settings & truly soak in unforgettable scenery that will have you coming back year after year just like the locals!

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It’s pretty common that Northern Italian families have their second homes in the Dolomites, otherwise it’s likely for families to return to the same rental place year after year, creating a special bond to their beloved spot. Rather than booking  a standard albergo Italians usually opt for a farm stay, a sort of B&B system that positively promotes sustainable agriculture. You can recognize participating farms by the Red Rooster symbol. The owners will typically offer breakfast with a number of products that are locally grown. This is a great option for families as the apartments are ultra-cozy and are usually in the vicinity of a number of kid friendly local activities.

There’s something for everyone in the famiglia up in the Alps, even off-slope things to do. Winter sports range from Alpine & Nordic skiing, snowboarding  & snowshoeing to ice skating or simply sledding down a winding mountain path amidst breathtaking views. Passionate Italian skiers can’t wait to get their kids on the slopes so the ski schools are booked solid this time of year since la settimana bianca also perfectly coincides with the Italian version of the American “Spring break” right at the peak of Carnevale when most schools close for a week. 

Whatever one’s preferred outdoor activity,  another mountain delight that cannot be overlooked is a traditional, indulgent Alpine meal experience at a typical mountain baita.

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These chalet style restaurants bode ideal locations just off the slopes & cross country paths where the awesome scenery will have you glued to your lounge chair after lunch soaking up the rays just like a proper Italian. The regional cuisine is distinct due to the German & Austrian influences where bold, earthy flavors are king. Most of the baita & stube restaurants will offer this fusion food of German & Italian traditions. Menu options are usually short & sweet: all the basics will be offered though, not to worry.  Offerings will strictly highlight local ingredients following regional recipes that will be sure to have your taste buds exploding, especially paired with a luscious glass of vino or a refreshing pint of artisanal beer. Portions are also abundant compared to other Mediterranean regions so be sure to leave room for a slice of homemade apple strudel topped with fresh whipped cream!


Some quintessential mountain dishes not to be missed:

Long1-single2Antipasti: polenta ai funghi topped with grated parmiggiano, zuppa d’orzo (vegetable barley soup),  goulash soup, chopped sauerkraut salad with crunchy flatbread, assorted smoked salami & aged cheese plates;

First course: smoked ham canederli dumplings, potato gnocchi, tagliatelle with chanterelle mushroom cream sauce, beetroot ravioli;

Main dish: venison with mountain herb & grappa sauce, roast pork with white cabbage, plums & apples, beef tagliata with sautéed radicchio & roasted potatoes;

Specialty dessert: apple fritters with vanilla sauce, apple strudel with fresh whipped cream, ricotta dumplings with fruit, vanilla gelato served with warm raspberries, chocolate Sacher cake.


Fratelli Beretta Speck and Bresaola are specialty meats typical of this mountainous area also to be enjoyed and savored. 

http://www.fratelliberetta.com/en/home/prodotti#s/?p=1&tipologia=Speck

 http://www.fratelliberetta.com/en/home/prodotti#s/?p=1&tipologia=Bresaola

Long1-single3A full day under the Alpine sun on the slopes merits a relaxing couple of hours at a benessere spa- another treasured wellness activity during la settimana bianca. Most hotels offer individual daily access to their spas & pools for outside guests if the local town spa is not your first choice. The ultimate spa ritual according to local South Tyrolean customs includes outdoor whirlpools of varying temperatures, panoramic glass enclosed Finnish saunas with sensational views into the surrounding woods, Turkish style steam rooms with high humidity enhanced by herbal essences, salt grottos, hot hay baths in herb-enriched grass, relaxing oasis rooms with waterbeds as well as numerous body treatment services including therapeutic massages. Most of these are adult only areas as tradition & current regulations call for sans bathing suits in these dedicated wellness spas. There will always be a family friendly indoor/outdoor pool option as well with lots of lounge chairs for end of day snuggles.


Photo & entry credit: Liz Garrity